When re-connecting, it’s positive first, then negative.Īvoid working near sparks and open flames. When you disconnect a battery, take off the negative first, denoted by a negative symbol (–) and a black cable, then the positive, denoted by a positive symbol (+) and a red cable. When working with vehicle batteries, wear safety goggles and latex gloves to protect yourself from acid splashes.
Car battery tester autozone professional#
Models designed for professional use can run into the thousands of dollars. 12V/24V testers are considerably more expensive, costing from $90 to $130. We suggest investing a little more, with reliable devices available for around $40.ĭual voltage 6V/12V models run from $45 upwards. Those with digital readouts are about $5 more, though models this cheap may not always be accurate. Those that can actually measure battery condition start at around $45 and run to about $100, largely depending on the variety of battery sizes they can check.īattery load testers with basic analog needle indicators cost as little as $25 for a 12V-only model. Very basic load testers can be found for around $10.
Car battery tester autozone Bluetooth#
There are also those with USB and/or Bluetooth capabilities, allowing you to send data to your computer or output it to a compatible printer. Serrated clamps tend to provide better grip.Ī few models offer an optional printer so you can keep a paper record of results. Leads with smooth-edged clamps may fall off the battery during testing. Look for models with leads of at least several feet. If the leads are short, it can be difficult to move the tester to a position that’s easy to read. Testers have wire leads that connect it to the battery with clamps. Digital displays give more precise information and are easier to read, especially in low light conditions. Most low-cost battery testers have an analog needle that indicates results against a printed label. There are numerous battery technologies - flooded (regular lead acid) batteries, gel, AGM flat, and AGM spiral - and you’ll need to know the type that you have, as some basic battery load testers won’t work with all types. You also need to know if it is capable of measuring your battery’s CCA. A 12V tester is fine for many people, but some will measure both 6V and 12V, others measure 12V and 24V. The first thing to look for is the voltage covered. An alternator not only keeps your battery’s charge topped off, it also supplies power to your vehicle’s electrical devices while the engine is running, so it’s a vital part of the system.īestReviews Choosing a battery load tester Many are capable of checking your alternator as well. Some testers take the reading much quicker than the standard 15 seconds. Depending on which model you buy, you can get the percentage charge, voltage, rated and actual CCA, internal resistance, and a battery health reading (an estimate of the life remaining as a percentage). In practice, many battery load testers will provide a good deal more information. If it produces a consistent 9.6 volts, it passes. The testing device measures the voltage for 15 seconds at 50% of the battery’s stated CCA. Ideally, a load test should be performed at 70☏ or warmer. For a family sedan, that’s probably around 400 amps. In practical terms, it’s the number of amps required to start your vehicle. This is the number of amps a battery needs to maintain a voltage of 7.2V for 30 seconds at 0☏. All vehicle batteries have a cold cranking amps (CCA) rating. When the energy starts to flow, it’s measured in amperes, commonly called amps. For a 24V heavy-duty truck battery, simply double those figures. A 12-volt automotive battery should actually read 12.6 volts when fully charged and the engine is turned off, and somewhere between 13.7V and 14.7V when the engine is running. Volts can be looked at as the amount of energy available within the battery. The basic job of a load tester is to check volts and amps, though some models can do much more than that. What does a battery load tester actually test?
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